Iconic Spirits by Mark Spivak


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The Iconic Spirits Blog

Sous Vide Spirits Infusions

May 15, 2013

Tags: sous vide spirits infusions

Over the past decade, the sous vide cooking process has morphed from an esoteric technique to something commonplace in both professional and home kitchens. This is partly due to the influence of the ubiquitous food media and the desire of consumers everywhere to jump on the bandwagon of whatever trend is new and hot. In large part, though, sous vide has become popular because it works---many ingredients really do taste better when prepared this way.

Best translated as “under vacuum,” the sous vide method is simple. The ingredient is sealed in an airtight plastic bag and cooked in a water bath under low temperatures (usually 110-130 Fahrenheit) for a long period of time (as much as several days). The result tends to be a food product with more intense flavors, and one that has been cooked consistently throughout. Troisgros in France is generally credited as the first to use it commercially, and today you’d be hard pressed to find a restaurant kitchen without a sous vide machine. (more…)

The Imperial Bartender

May 8, 2013

Tags: imperial bartender

Several months ago, the New York Post---which, as we know, is one of the last defenders of cultural norms in a deteriorating world---ran a piece on Manhattan bartenders refusing to make Mojitos for customers. The story basically said that you can’t get a Mojito in a New York bar during peak hours on a Friday or Saturday evening. In addition to being messy to make, the drinks are time-consuming: You have to carefully muddle the mint leaves to get it right, which is hard to do when there are dozens of customers at the bar, three or four deep, clamoring for alcohol. Request a Mojito, and you’re likely to hear that the bar is out of mint leaves. (more…)

St. George Spirits: A Tale of Three Gins

April 10, 2013

Tags: st george spirits

Back in 1982, when Jörg Rupf founded St. George Spirits in Alameda, California, the craft distilling movement in this country didn’t exist. Like many other visionaries, Rupf was at least several decades ahead of the societal curve. To make matters more difficult, he decided to focus exclusively on eau de vie, a spirit practically unknown among American consumers.

As the years passed, Rupf became the Godfather of American craft distilling. He won numerous awards for his eau di vie, and trained the next generation of artisan distillers, men such as Steve McCarthy (Clear Creek), Randall Grahm (Bonny Doon) and Fritz Maytag (Anchor Distilling). However, the pivotal moment in the history of St. George was probably the day in 1996 when Lance Winters turned up to apply for a job, with a bottle of homemade whiskey in hand as his resume. (more…)

The Balvenie

April 3, 2013

Tags: the balvenie

The modern firm of William Grant and Sons is a large company that controls nearly two dozen major international alcohol brands, but the historical William Grant had humbler beginnings. Born in 1839 in Dufftown, a village in Scotland’s Speyside region, Grant did stints as a shoemaker, clerk and bookkeeper before deciding to learn the art of distilling. In 1886 he laid the cornerstone for his distillery in the shadow of Balvenie Castle, and remained active in the operation until his death in 1923.

Speyside today has more distilleries than any other region in Scotland, and produces over 40 different malts. These range from the most popular Scotch whiskies in the world (Glenlivet and Glenfiddich) to some of the most prized (The Macallan). Dufftown is located on the River Fiddich, and is home to six major distilleries; the town is fond of describing itself as “The Whisky Capital of the World,” although I can think of a few locales in Kentucky that might take issue with that. The most traditional of those distilleries is The Balvenie. (more…)

Behind the Zion Curtain

March 27, 2013

Tags: utah liquor laws, zio curtain

The headline on the accompanying newspaper story is only partly true. Eighty years after the Repeal of Prohibition, there are still a number of states with antiquated and restrictive liquor laws. Among the worst of these, as you might imagine, is Utah. The 2002 Winter Olympics in Salt Lake City shined a spotlight on the state’s alcohol statutes, and things haven’t loosened up much in the intervening decade.

You can order a drink in a restaurant with a liquor license, but only when consuming food---if you want a libation while looking over the menu, forget it. This law doesn’t apply to bars, since the patrons have presumably corrupted their souls by the mere act of entering the building. There’s also an exception for airport lounges, since the sinners are on their way out of the state and can no longer exercise a negative influence on the locals. Want to buy beer, wine or liquor? Go to a state-operated store. The most absurd liquor law in Utah, however, is the so-called Zion Curtain. (more…)

Solerno Blood Orange Liqueur

March 20, 2013

Tags: solerno blood orange liqueur

Oranges today are commonplace, but they were once among the rarest and most highly prized of culinary treats. During his march across Europe, the Emperor Napoléan learned that a chemist in Belgium was making a liqueur from mandarins, which at the time were an exotic ingredient not available outside Sicily or Northern Africa. He requested that the liqueur be blended with is personal Cognac. Unfortunately, he didn’t have much time to enjoy it, since the first shipment was delivered while he was on his way to Waterloo. Today, that liqueur is known as Mandarine Napoléan.

Blood oranges, a natural mutation of the sweet orange, have always occupied a special place in the world of citrus. While they may have first appeared on the scene in Asia, they migrated to the Mediterranean shortly afterward, and today are the primary variety of orange grown in Italy. Connoisseurs and botanists alike will tell you that Sicily has the best climate for growing citrus, and that the island is the source for the finest blood oranges. (more…)

The Robotic Bartender

March 13, 2013

Tags: bartendro

Ever wondered exactly what’s missing in your life? Have you ever agonized over the one piece of the puzzle that---if you could only find it---would finally complete your existence on planet Earth?

If so, what’s probably missing is a robotic bartender. I’m not referring to a guy making drinks with no personality or expression on his face, but rather to the ultimate combination of technology and debauchery: the Bartendro. (more…)

Concannon Irish Whiskey

March 6, 2013

Tags: concannon irish whiskey

If consumers confuse Livermore’s Concannon Vineyard with the Irish whiskey of the same name, the mixup is understandable---the two products have a common lineage.

James Concannon left Ireland for America in 1865, harboring the dream of creating great Bordeaux and Rhone-style wines in the New World. Ten years later he wandered across the country to California, became intrigued with the Livermore Valley, and immersed himself in the world of winemaking. Eventually, he became the first Irish immigrant to start a successful winery in the U.S. His operation survived Prohibition, and eventually became known as a champion of California Petite Sirah and the potential of Livermore as a viticultural area. (more…)

Classic American Bars: Proof On Main, Louisville

February 27, 2013

Tags: proof on main

Proof on Main is regarded as an essential stop on downtown Louisville’s Urban Bourbon Trail. The bar is attached to the 21C Museum Hotel, opened in 2006 by philanthropists and art collectors Laura Lee Brown and Steve Wilson. Brown and Wilson wanted to help reverse the pattern of suburban sprawl by rejuvenating the city’s downtown area (and, presumably, to make money in the process). The overall feel of the place is similar to living in the MOMA; the hotel’s public spaces are filled with changing exhibits of the type of art many people used to make fun of, while some still do. (more…)

National Margarita Day

February 20, 2013

Tags: national margarita day

Friday, February 22 is National Margarita Day. If you’re at least middle-aged and the date sounds vaguely familiar, it used to be celebrated as Washington’s birthday. Nowadays we commemorate our first president on the third Monday in February, and clear the decks for serious drinking on his actual birth date.

Like many other famous cocktails, the origin of the margarita is shrouded in mystery. One version places its invention in Ensenada, Mexico in 1941, when bartender Don Carlos Orozco first served the drink to Margarita Henkel, the daughter of a German diplomat. Another story claims that it was devised a few years earlier by Carlos Herrera, who created it for a former showgirl named Marjorie King. Yet another commonly accepted tale insists that it was first concocted by a Dallas socialite named Margaret “Margarita” Somes. (more…)